going further back in time...




A few days before we moved into our house we went to a Baci. A Baci is a traditional Lao party where they unify the 32 sprits of the body. They are held for occasions of change, celebrations, or just to get things going well. The occasion for this Baci, which was held at the house, was the old tenants were moving out and we were moving in. I also think it was a chance for the staff of the house to check out the new boss.  It was the girls and I (Marc was away at meditation retreat), Pascale and Phillipe, the soon to be former renters and the guards, their children, siblings, mothers etc… and Madame Noi, the house keeper and her family.

The Baci began at 5 in the afternoon. Everyone sat around a large elaborate flower arrangement with marigolds, rice, eggs, fruit and white string. Then, a shaman  recited something for 10 minutes. When he  finished people took turns tying the white strings around each other’s wrists. You are supposed to keep the string on for three days and then untie them_ you never cut them off.  And voila, your bodily spirits are aligned.

That’s when the partying starts. I think this Baci was pretty mellow, no drinking of Lao Lao. Lao Lao is lao whisky made from rice and I think normally it is consumed in great quantities at Bacis, but our host didn’t like it so we just drank beer Lao. Many bottles were consumed. We also had a big yummy buffet prepared by Madame Noi, the housekeeper. Tons of Lao dishes, all very good. Then the dancing began. A sound system was rented and everyone danced. Lao dancing is very mellow, you sway from side to side and slowly move your hands in a mellow hula, Thai dancing kind of way. By 8 pm  it was all over.