Lan Ten
For the girl’s October break we went to the north of Laos to Luang Namtha. Luang Namtha is located next to the Nam Ha National Forest, one of the biggest and most diverse national protected areas in Laos. We went on a kayaking excursion for 3 days, kayaking during the day and sleeping in villages at night. We went down the Nam Ha river in the National Park. The first night we stayed at a Lanten village. The Lanten are one of many ethnic groups in Northern Laos. They came down from China about 500 years ago and settled in the area. They speak their own language but those who can write do so in Chinese. The closest road to the village we stayed in is a 5 hour walk and then another 5 hour walk to the nearest town. Needless to say there is no electricity, no running water, they rely on the river for water, fish and transportation.
We are so glad we went with the kids. The local children just got a kick out of Miranda and Eliana. In the Lan Ten village they kept teasing Miranda by catching spiders and slowly pulling off their legs and mock throwing them at Miranda who would shriek in fear (and delight). I don’t think they get to see many falang (foreign) children. We spent what felt like hours just checking each other out. They would just walk into the hut we stayed in and hang out and watch us eat, hang out or sleep. All cooking was done inside the hut with an open fire. Our guides Noi and Tsai made incredibly delicious food. All food was eaten with fingers, the Laotian way.
Right next to the Lanten village is a Khmu village. In this village they had the local school (with the flag in front) for all the kids in the “neighborhood”. We had brought some notebooks and pens to give out and this presented the perfect opportunity as the kids were in class. The village leader wanted to meet us. He is the guy with the military vest. He was very fond of the girls and asked if we had pictures of them. It so happens Charlotte did and we gave them to him as a present.
KHMU
The second night we stayed a Khmu village. They are a Laotian indigenous ethnic group with their own language. It was rice harvest time and everyone was out harvesting the rice. This is real subsistence farming. The village was next to a dirt road although it was not hooked up to the electrical grid. People still used the river for bathing, laundry and cooking water.
going back in time...
We went for a weekend to Nam Lik Ecolodge on the Nam Lik River. The guy who manages the place is Richard, a French guy who has been living in Laos for 16 years. He is an amateur entomologist. He has an incredible collection of invertebrates he’s been collecting since managing the place. He also built a vivarium for snakes, fish, lizards, frogs, geckos etc. Needless to say Miranda was in heaven. He gave her a butterfly net and off she was hunting down all sorts of things. Richard pays the village kids to collect insects to feed the inhabitants of the vivarium. Each morning they show up with all sorts of ‘goodies’. He also has 4 kinds of poisonous snakes that villagers have brought him. During the day we went kayaking and hiking in the jungle.
There was a festival in the village while we were there and Richard invited us to visit his friend’s house. We sat around drinking Lao High, a fermented rice drink and beer, at 10 in the morning. We left around noon, although they continued until evening. The hosts were incredibly kind and offered us all kinds of things to munch on. The kids were really into a coconut and rice pudding they keep wrapped in banana leaves.
going further back in time...
A few days before we moved into our house we went to a Baci. A Baci is a traditional Lao party where they unify the 32 sprits of the body. They are held for occasions of change, celebrations, or just to get things going well. The occasion for this Baci, which was held at the house, was the old tenants were moving out and we were moving in. I also think it was a chance for the staff of the house to check out the new boss. It was the girls and I (Marc was away at meditation retreat), Pascale and Phillipe, the soon to be former renters and the guards, their children, siblings, mothers etc… and Madame Noi, the house keeper and her family.
The Baci began at 5 in the afternoon. Everyone sat around a large elaborate flower arrangement with marigolds, rice, eggs, fruit and white string. Then, a shaman recited something for 10 minutes. When he finished people took turns tying the white strings around each other’s wrists. You are supposed to keep the string on for three days and then untie them_ you never cut them off. And voila, your bodily spirits are aligned.
That’s when the partying starts. I think this Baci was pretty mellow, no drinking of Lao Lao. Lao Lao is lao whisky made from rice and I think normally it is consumed in great quantities at Bacis, but our host didn’t like it so we just drank beer Lao. Many bottles were consumed. We also had a big yummy buffet prepared by Madame Noi, the housekeeper. Tons of Lao dishes, all very good. Then the dancing began. A sound system was rented and everyone danced. Lao dancing is very mellow, you sway from side to side and slowly move your hands in a mellow hula, Thai dancing kind of way. By 8 pm it was all over.
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